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Tourbillon till now is one of the most complicated devices, made by watchmakers. Invented by king of watchmakers Abraham Louis Breguet tourbillon was made to improve accuracy of watches. That time it was quite uneasy to produce high precision parts where physical center was equal to the mathematical one. That’s why the rate of watches was unstable in different positions because of influence of gravity. Breguet invented self compensating system where you could use normally produced parts (lower precision). He put parts of the escapement into the special rotating cage. A balance wheel for a minute was in all its positions, compensating gaining or slow-down appeared in certain positions. I should notice, that Breguet invented tourbillon only for pocket watches, usually placed in vertical positions. After Breguet’s death only a few manufactures still produced tourbillobns. After the crisis of Swiss watch industry some manufacturers began to produce tourbillon again. I would say, that for wrist watches this complication is doubtful concerning reliability and accuracy, but till now it is most prestigious among other complications.

Fig
1. Limited edition

There are not too many tourbillon producers in the world. I would like to review Joseph Chevalier movement CH 1760, based on Progress 6361. Progress is quite famous because of the affray. The manufacture was established by ex-engineers of ETA SA. They used some ETA inventions. Besides this caliber was the first “folk” tourbillon – the price of watch was around 20000 US dollars!!! It was unpleasant to other manufacturers, so Progress was close to bankruptcy. Now it is called STT (Swiss Time Technologies). I would like to mention, that only 6 Swiss and a few German watch producers ventured to make watches with this caliber. Among them there are: Jacques Etoile, Alain Silberstein, Chronoswiss, Frederique Constant, Harry Winston and Joseph Chevalier.

Fig
2. The movement is hand engraved

The base caliber is Progress 6361 with 23 jewels, minute tourbillon and stop second feature. Diameter of the movt is 30 mm, height 5.4 mm, power reserve – 72 hours. Shock protecting device is Incabloc. It is flying tourbillon with the balance wheel placed in the center of the cage. The cage is fixed from the only side.

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Fig 3. There are well finished parts under the dial. Circular Graining in the bridges, blued screws

Pay attention to the Fig.4. Minute wheel and keyless works are very common to ETA design. Moreover, you can find the 3rd wheel and intermediate wheel very common to ETA ones.

Fig
4. Keyless works in the best traditions of ETA movts

Tourbillon needs extra power, so you cannot use normal mainspring. There are two ways: to use stronger mainspring or to use two barrels. As a result – better performance and 3 days power reserve.

Fig
5. There are two barrels to give extra power

Fig
6. Mainspring bridges. Design is common to ETA 2892-А2

Let’s jump to the most interesting device – the cage. As I told before – it is fixed to the bridge in the only point. Pay attention to the fig.7. Central jewel is a car jewel of the balance wheel with Incabloc shock protection. The cage is set in ball bearing and fixed with a special bolt very common to oscillating weight bolt of ETA 2892A2 movt. The ball bearing has 7 ruby balls.

Fig
7. The ball bearing is based on 7 ruby balls

The hairspring is flat and mounted in not moving stud. The index has device very common to ETACHRON, so if you want to adjust a gap between pins you can simply turn this brass device to some angle.

Fig
8. The part of cage and index are look like a small second hand

Second wheel is fixed firmly to the bridge. The escape wheel pinion moves among it and rotates the whole cage. There are teeth on the outer part of cage. With these teeth the cage interacts with the wheel train.

Fig
9. Dismounted tourbillon

The balance wheel is a bit strange, with enlarged axle. In this way producer placed cap jewel to the level of bridge surface – easier to maintain.

Fig
10. The balance is with strange rim and long axle

The cage is disassembled. Escapement bridge is dismounted. The pallet fork is made as a lever – for the better composition (also to place the balance in the center of the cage). Both banking pins are from the one side of the pallet fork – very original decision.

Рис
11. Banking pins are from the one side of the pallet fork

In conclusion I would like to say that I like this movement. It has the most modern decisions, passed thru many years of trials. The cage is fixed easily and safely, the balance can be adjusted easily and quickly. Cannon pinion with driving wheel have the best design, ever used. There is a very reliable movement.
The only minor thing – there are no slots for easier bridge removing – there is a risk to scratch a main plate.

Rolex is a manufacture with old traditions and one
hundred years of history. Rolex is always considered a luxury watch,
giving assurance to its owner.

I would like to review a quite common model Rolex
Submariner (Ref. 16610). The case and the bracelet are made of stainless
steel. It is a COSC certified automatic chronometer with central seconds and
date indicator. There’s a special Triplock screwed down crown with
increased water protection.

Fig.2 Three dots under the crown mean that it is Triplock system

Many Rolex owners are interested in how to
learn whether their watch is genuine without opening the case. The most reliable way is to
find reference and serial numbers on the case (concerning Oyster models).
Serial and reference numbers are usually stamped on the surface of the
case between the
lugs (at 6 o’clock and at 12 o’clock correspondingly). In other models,
serial and reference numbers are placed on the inside of the case back.
According to the serial number, this model was produced between 3/4 1997
and 1999.

Fig.3 Serial number between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position

Inside the watch there’s a well known Cal. 3135. Its
features: 28.50 mm in diameter, 6.00 mm – height, frequency 28.800 vph. The movement is based on 31 jewels. The calendar is instantaneous.
The balance wheel is made of glucydur.

Fig.4 Microstella system for rate adjustment

On the balance there are two pairs of adjusting nuts
known as the Microstella system. Rolex uses a Breguet overcoil for better isochronism.
Special screw-nuts are used for adjusting balance end-shake. For shock
protection Rolex uses a KIF system.

Fig.5 Dismounted oscillating weight

The movement is adjusted for five positions and
temperature. The visible parts of the bridges are finished with a colimaconnage
pattern. On the rotor there are special slots (see Fig.15) – these are a traditional
Rolex design.

The surfaces of Bridges are rhodium plated, edges are
beveled. The screws are finished to a high level (the surface and the
walls are polished, edges including the slot are chamfered).

Almost all parts are made by Rolex (excluding
the hairspring which is
made by Nivarox). I know that Rolex specialists are going to produce
hairsprings themselves. Recently you could find the Zenith chrono movement in
Daytona watches. Now it has been replaced with a Rolex caliber.

I would say that Rolex’s tendency to be independent has
good and bad sides.  On one hand, independence in business is good, but
on
the other hand it makes manufacturing less flexible. There are too many
costs associated with producing a new caliber, and replacing an old caliber with a new
one has to be justified economically. That’s why Rolex sometimes uses
older conceptions and decisions in its movements.

This watch has been well worn for about 7
years without any service. When I checked it, I noticed a strange noise
inside the watch. The winding weight (rotor) touched bridges and the case back while
rotating. I hoped that perhaps the automatic winding module was not screwed in
properly. But after one look at the movement it was clear that the
problem is in the oscillating weight axle. The movement was full of red
dust – a product of wear. I’ve checked the rotor axle jewel – it was dirty but
not damaged. As for the axle – it was worn enough to allow the rotor to
touch movement parts.

Fig.6 Worn axle covered with the red dust

Unfortunately, Rolex still does not use ball
bearings in its top calibers. Instead, there is a plain sleeve bearing,
and proper oiling is critical. When the lubricant evaporates or
migrates, the metal axle experiences wear against the jewel. In Fig. 6
above you can notice a rut left by the
jewel. If Rolex specialists had designed an automatic device based on ball
bearings (like in most modern automatic devices) – the watch would be more
reliable.

Fig. 7 A new axle

Replacing the axle solved the problem. The oscillating
weight began rotating smoothly. Endshake was less than 0.04 mm so I didn’t

replace the spring-clip.

The automatic module is dismounted. All parts fit
perfectly. I would like you to notice that the quality of all parts is very
good. There are no problems with servicing this caliber. It fortified my opinion that
good manufacturers think not only about factory assembly, but also about
ease of periodic servicing. Rolex technical information is well done and easy to
understand.

Pay attention to the balance bridge. It is placed on two
supports, which provides better stability. The bridges and the plate are
finished with circular graining. This is not only for decorative
purposes but also for better dust protection.

Fig.8 Dismounted automatic device

After inspecting the pallet fork, it was clear why the
watch had stopped. Note that the escape wheel teeth and palettes are
very dirty. This prevents the movement from working properly. The main plate
is also dirty.

Fig.9 Escape wheel teeth and palettes are very dirty

Let’s look at the automatic winding module. The automatic system is
perfect. It is bi-directional, in the style of ETA/Eterna. The two red colored
wheels appear to be fabricated from a light alloy, and are coated with PTFE
("Teflon") for lubrication of the outer teeth and inner clicks. The red
wheels are the calling card of Rolex. Unlike ETA’s reversing wheels, Rolex’s
are dismountable for better servicing. They are easier to clean and oil (only pivots should be oiled). That’s why they are more durable
than ETA’s. In Fig.10 below I disassembled the first wheel. There are
four clicks on two swinging levers.

Fig.10 Famous red wheels from Rolex

As seen below, all bridges are removed. The wheel train system is
traditional for a movement with central seconds. Because it uses fewer
wheels, this system is very robust and reliable, however the
construction requirements are tougher. In other systems where central seconds are
made as a pinion added to the train wheel, the automatic winding
module can be placed to one side, making the movement thinner. Rolex’s
construction does not allow this trick,  so the automatic winding device is placed above the wheel
train. The movement ends up being 6 mm high – quite thick for a modern
movement.

In Fig. 11 below you can notice a gold lever (yellow
arrow). It is
a stop device and it keeps the balance rim from moving when you pull out
the crown. Two regulating nuts for balance bridge (marked with blue
arrows) are made for balance endshake adjustment. 1/8 of a turn makes
about 0.01 mm.

Fig.11 The bridges are dismounted. The blue arrows are point out the
regulating nuts for balance endshake adjustment. This is very useful

Traditionally in high quality watches, the calendar
bridge, hidden under the dial, is finished in perlage style. To reduce
friction, the calendar ring is mounted on 3 jewels. They are not shown in
the picture. You can also notice one more jewel in Fig.12 below. According to
international requirements, watch jewels can be functional, not functional
and decorative. According to these requirements, manufacturers can claim
only the quantity of functional jewels. I would hardly believe that these 4
jewels are of the utmost necessity… it’s a Rolex thing.

Fig. 12 Dial side view

In the Fig. 13 below you can see
the instantaneous date changing mechanism. There is a steel part of complex shape
(2)
mounted on the date wheel (1). It can move at a certain small angle, set by
the slot. The
jewel roller (5) moves on the surface of the steel part (2). The lever (3) with roller
is pressed against the steel part (2) with a strong spring (4). At approximately
12 p.m. the jewel roller reaches the indentation or dip in the steel part
(2). Under the pressure of the spring, the roller
moves to the center of the date wheel (1) and moves the steel part at
an
angle sufficient to catch the tooth of the date wheel and move it on one
step. In the Fig. 13 the date wheel (1) is in the position immediately after date
changing.

Fig. 13 Instantaneous date changing device

There are 31 jewels are used in this movement, but
as shown below, instead
of a central jewel there is a bronze bushing. I guess that this
construction is
more reliable than a jewel during shocks. Anyway it is easy to
replace the bushing, so it is no disadvantage but  rather a feature of this caliber.

Fig.14 It is strange, but there is a bronze bushing instead of central
jewel

Fig.15 The watch is repaired, but the track of the rotor on the bridges
is visible and spoils the impression created by the movement

After cleaning the movement and oiling according to Rolex
recommendations, amplitude increased to a normal 270 degrees.

The early wear is the result of 7 years
of use with no
service. Unfortunately, many watch owners bypass the advice of
the manufacturer to oil and clean the watch periodically. Mechanical
watches should be cleaned and oiled every 2-3 years. You will rarely find a watch with
no problem after even 5 years without servicing.

The first indications that your watch should be inspected
are reduced accuracy and a smaller power reserve. Even if
you feel that everything is all right, remember that oil is not
eternal – it dissipates over time and parts work dry. The products of wear
such as metal dust can affect other parts and spoil their lubrication. It is clear that
periodic cleaning and oiling are cheaper than replacing expensive
parts.

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High tech devices are constantly being designed to assist parents and help keep children safe. One of the old gadgets that was widely used is the baby monitor. Yeah, yeah, I know it’s really not that old, but now days we have more advanced models of the traditional baby alarm or monitoring system. A parent can literally watch their little one playing in the other room via a hand-held camera. See what they’re up to and what they’re saying at any time you please. This naturally makes it easy for a parent to get things done around the house, but keep peace of mind while doing so. Another variation of the baby alarm comes in the form of a small device that attaches to your child’s clothing. You can keep the receiver on your keychain of in your pocket. If you want to know the exact location of your child, simply press the baby alarm receiver and it will sound on the child. Pretty nifty, huh? This gadget is particularly ideal for parents with toddlers. Attach a baby alarm to their outfit before allowing them to walk next to you in a public place. This way you can keep track of your child at all times and help prevent abduction. And if you really want to go all-out, there are also tracking watches that can be purchased. This lets you see the location of your child, regardless of where he/she is. Obviously this device would be ideal if a child were abducted. Authorities could locate the kid pretty quickly.

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Everyone knows Quartz watches. The brand name is so famous and has been with us so long even the poorest people in the world have heard of them. They may of even owned one. They are possibly the most popular form of watch in the world. More than like