Recently one of my pals gave me a box full of wrist watches. Supposedly it belonged to some wachmaker. Some vintage bimetallic balances kept separately, most of watches were in good condition, but did not have some parts: hands, crowns. But it’s not a deal. Among this I’d say junk I found one inconspicuous watch. An ordinary Raketa in a chromed case. A plain cheap dial (recovered by stamping). After inspecting a special spring ring (to fix the movt in the case) you can be assured that all parts of this watch are original excluding the dial of course. Perhaps You are bored with a long prelude on a cheap Soviet watch. But I was amazed while inspecting this watch for the first time. Bridges of the movement were guilloshed! It’s not a secret that in the Soviet Union was known about different styles of finishing parts of movement: circular graining, Cotes de Geneve, brushed finishing, polished screws, regulator, steel wheels. But I’ve met guilloshe from Raketa for the first time.
src="elysee_files/RS.jpg" width=256 align=left vspace=5>- I’ve bought ELYSEE brand in 1992 and started changing its image at once.
- If there was smth wrong with previous one?
- It was too conservative like all German, was orientated on the domestic market. Besides the Company tried to produce only expensive watches, hardly comparing with Junghans brand.
- So you decided not to change a trade mark? Btw what does it mean?
- Oh its a Greek word…(With some blues) How can I explain you… ELEISION (means from heaven)
- A paradise garden, where there are living righteous souls?
- Oh! You know what does ELYSEE mean! Complimented. You can hardly find such kind of people.
- Thanks but we studying at school poems of Russian poet Tutchev, the author of the words: “My soul – Elysium of shades”. Let’s slide slowly to ELYSEE brand. Why did you generally decide to buy this brand?
- The matter is – I’m a fanciful admirer of watches. From my childhood. I’ve got a big collection of vintage watches. Probably my hobby is derived from my forefather. He was a famous German writer, Johann Gottfried Seume 1763-1810. Not as famous as Lev Tolstoi , but still well known in Germany. He had written an essay about time, in which he tried to understand, what does the Time mean, what is its essence, what is the difference between human and philosophic times etc. Only when I was 15 I could read his works and estimate them. But since that time watches became my desire. Once upon a time in NYC I’ve seen a very old watch and bought it: it was worn hard, dirty and not expensive. But when it came back to me after refurbishment and cleaning – I was amazed with its beauty – a real treasure. It was the first watch in my collection. I was 20, I studied economics. Later I became a banker, but always dreamed to deal with watches. My dream got real in 1992. The bargain formalised for a year or so, I authorised all matters to jurists and became studying watch designing.
- You wanted to surprise public with a superwatch?
- Of course no. To that period I’ve got some business experience and I understood I won’t be able to compare with big brands. So I decided at first to find my consumer among young people, who is in the beginning of their carrier, drive BMW of 3d or sometimes 5th series. Its very interesting and extraordinary public: everybody minds his own business, wants to have his own unrepeatable style. Such person won’t buy watch which everybody wears, he fends for his image and wants like the British say: “Something special”. Besides this watch should be of high quality and reasonable price – from 80 till 1300 Euro.
- Is your production oriented on males?
- We produce 50/50 gents’ and ladies’ watches. That’s why we make the equal qty of quartz and mechanical watches, despite of the fact the most benefit we’ve got from selling the last ones. It’s because of we, Germans, do not like quartz. Even if there is a quartz movement inside of the watch, we won’t ever point it out on the dial. The most popular model now is 7844107. It’s a classic automatic chronograph in the big size steel case. I have to note that 99.9 percent of our watches are made of stainless steel.
- And what about very fashionable titanium?
- I hate it! IMHO titanium watches are ugly. The material is to light, goods look cheap. Admit, titanium now is in fashion, and some models of ELYSEE watches look like titanium. But it’s not so. We just finish stainless steel in a way to look like titanium.
- You are not about to use gold and platinum?
- No, trespassing the higher price level of the market is not in my plans. We will increase producing of complex mechanical watches because of higher demand and decreasing of making cheap quartz watches. ELYSEE even made several ladies chronographs, which are in grate demand.
- How many models does your brand produce?
- Seems to me 156. Generally about 150.
- Who’s your general competitors?
- Not for long ago our main market was Germany and we don’t have direct competitors there. Many brands here and there come to our segment but nobody works there task-oriented, so we feel positive.
- What countries would you like to conquer later?
- France and…Switzerland. Yes-yes, won’t be surprised. We got exporting ELYSEE watches to the native of watchmaking last year. Its too hard to trade there, I was called a mad person. But I am still optimistic.
- With what feature will you conquer Switzerland?
- Design and quality, what else? What we see – we buy watches in Switzerland, take them to Germany and after finishing send back. While being in Germany we’ve got a chance to make smth special with watches to sell them best in the native.
- In other words you as if demonstrate the German sight on their watches?
- That’s right: German design, German eagle on a dial, stainless steel, all lettering in German, including principal one – Dusseldorf.
- Who excluding you participates in ELYSEE designing?
- Two in Germany, one specialist in Switzerland. First two develop, the last one tries to bring their ideas to our suppliers in original style, makes our ideas real.
- Does your visit in Moscow mean you are interested in the East market?
- Sure, and the main aim here is, of course, Russland. Besides we come here not to earn money during several years and go away. We, Germans, are conservative. We like to do anything thoroughly, scrupulously, well and for long. We found in RUSTIME a young, strong and serious partner.
- There are many brands come into Russia positioning their watches for the mid class sector: Maurice Lacroix, Jacques Lemans, Chevalier …
- I know, but their watches cost much more expensive then mine. And so I consider ELYSEE has got good chance in Russia. Moreover, in respect that German economics gradually comes down, which for sure will tell on public consumption, Russia can become foreground market for ELYSEE watches. As to me – I see how succeed German car producers, furniture and foot-wear makers here, passing through not the best times in the native…
- What’s your position then?
- Since 1993 our growing per year was more than 20 %. In November, 2002 it increased till 18%. Generally it’s not bad index.
- How many people are working in your company?
- In headquarters – 10. Not too much? We needn’t more. Every person responds for the certain country, as to delivery to our distributors – we’ve got a contract with logistic company. Besides, in other countries I prefer to deal with the only distributor. Several become compare which causes to price reducing etc.
- How many workers are at your workshops?
- We’ve got an assembling line. Movements and cases are Swiss Made, bands – Italian etc. Our watchmakers make our watches waterproof, add complex modules to some models etc.
- Btw about complexing. Will ETA refusal to deliver movements in parts make your life harder?
- Sure its a serious problem. Now we try to solve it. But to some moment one have to find a right way, because Switzerland tries to stay exclusive supplier of not only movements, but practically of all other parts of watches. They dictate their conditions to watch producers from other countries. It should have taken place earlier or later. For ELYSEE its a reasonable argument to get using German movements. They are not worse than Swiss made ones. We’re close to make an agreement with PROGRESS EBAUCHES, SWITZERLAND. They produce very interesting, I’d say unique and reliable movements. Btw there are many modules of this factory in movts of our popular chronograph 16321. I guess this will also be popular in Russia.
- It’s quite a queer shape of your watch boxes. Looks like spectacle box. Is it your idea?
- Yeah. I wear glasses and so I’ve got an idea to produce such watch boxes. People throw out boxes of other watches, as to our solid Chrome shells – you can put there your spectacles. While buying watches you can choose a box color. You see what a big Logo on the top. Not bad advertisement to my brand, isn’t it?
- Do you have ads in magazines, TV?
- I prefer to put ads in specialised watch issues. As to other countries, we rely on our partners. We give them money for these purposes, they choose themselves where and how to put an ad.
- What would you call a main event 2002 in the watch business?
- Basel exhibition of course. It was the most interesting. Concerning ETA claim – I do not believe in its seriousness. If Switzerland participate in EC, than European government would bring Mr. Hayek to his level at no mo. As I know, his policy also perturbed many watchmakers in Switzerland. If they get together to solve this problem, Swatch Group will hardly risk to struggle against the consolidated front.
- Your seeing of the future of your company in 10 years?
- Hope we will domesticate a couple of other market segments, hardly more.
- Too modest…
- Why? I do not want at all my company to turn into face off enormous company like some Asian corporations, producing watches for anybody. For anybody means for nobody. There is RODANIA brand in small Belgium. I have nothing against it, but there are bulks of these watches on shelves of shops. At first it surprises, then you become protesting. Generally, I want us to stay a company, which knows what it wants, produces watches for certain group of customers and hold them strong and safe.
The history of watchmaking in Russia is not very long. Before the October revolution Russia had to assemble watches from ready parts, imported from Switzerland. It was more profitable to assemble watches in Russia because of tax barriers. For example you pay 4,5 roubles for ready watch or even 6 roubles for the same watch in gold case. And you pay about 0,75 rouble for enormous qty of spare parts. Most famous brands of that period were Henry Mozer, Pavel Bure, Victor Gabu, Freimuth, Kiseleff, Telefon. Some local workshops produced wallclocks and alarm clocks. Nobody even thought about watchmaking formation in tzar Russia.
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After the 1917 revolution, the whole watch industry became a part of the ‘Trust of Precision Mechanics’. They were watch enterprises, work shops, warehouses of watch parts and half-finished products which belonged to famous manufacturers, mentioned before. The first time the Soviets assembled watches from the spare parts, left in Russia after the revolution – there were Longines, Zenit, Omega, HM etc.
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But to 1926 all warehouses were out of spare parts. Only in 1927th there was a decision to start watch producing in Russia. First Soviet watch had been manufactured in 1930. Primarily Russia used foreign bimetallic balance wheels, bouchons, screws. Then the Soviets began producing their own jewels and balances. I won’t say it was a perfect quality – but it was fully made in Russia! This movement (pocket one) came up to WW2.
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To start production, the four types of watches were chosen: a man’s pocket watch with 15 jewels for the enterprises of the Narkomat (Ministry) of Means of Communications, a man’s wrist-watch with 7 jewels for the Red Army; a man’s pocket watch with 7 jewels and a ladies’ wrist-watch with 15 jewels to sell in a market. For the prototype there had been chosen a French “Lip” movement R43 (43 mm in diameter).
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hspace=10 src="pobeda_files/tn_vostok.jpg" width=165 align=right vspace=10 NOSAVE>In December, 1941 the most part of equipment and personnel was displaced to Zlatoust in Chelyabinsk region. Until nowadays it produces some stopwatches and
href="pobeda_files/achs1.jpg">AChS-11, the modernized 1st MWF pre-war production. Then in 1942 another factory was evacuated in Chistopol. It was incipience of “Vostok” factory. Most of this equipment had left after the war in Chistopol. During the World War Two evacuated the plant stopped producing watches and worked for military aims. After the WW2 there were enough machinery and (more important) many watch specialists to found Chistopol watch plant with “Vostok” trade mark.
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hspace=10 src="pobeda_files/tn_raketa2603d.jpg" width=162 align=left vspace=10 NOSAVE> According to the agreement (reparations) after the WW2 Russia had got from Germany some equipment, tools, etc. Glashutte factories had lost almost all machinery. It was quite new equipment, so the Russians were able to produce modern movements of that time, using high class of finishing. The 1st Moscow Watch Factory (now Poljot) started producing K-26 (”Pobeda”) in 1946. The “Pobeda” movement is based on the well known for us “Lip” R26. For more information about “Lip” you can read an article of
href="http://people.timezone.com/msandler/Articles/DownesLip/Lip.html">Nick Downes. It’s a VERY reliable movement. Many of them work for 40-50 years! Recently there was a joke among Russian watchmakers: You shouldn’t clean “Pobeda” not to spoil a structure of dirt.
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hspace=10 src="pobeda_files/tn_raketa2603m.jpg" width=162 align=left vspace=10 NOSAVE> The first time “Pobeda” had been manufactured only at the 1st Moscow Watch Factory (1947-1953). Then it started producing more modern watches and displaced “Pobeda” to other factories. There were “Vostok”, the 2nd Moscow Watch Factory, ZIM (Zavod Imeni Maslenikova – a watch factory in Samara) and “Raketa”. Every manufacture had some changes with the movement. Vostok added calendar and two cap jewels to escape wheel, besides it began producing movements with Incabloc protection. “Raketa” started later, I’d never met “Raketas” with a calendar, but they added to the original movement a central jewel. ZIM produced the cheapest variant of base movement.
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It can be funny, but nowadays “Pobeda” is still under production. I do not have any info what plant makes it (Maybe ZIM). The Chinese look like finishing and original design (15 jewels, no central jewel, no shock absorbing device) won’t make any pleasure.
1AChS (aviation clock) – a chronograph with a second timer and with the movement of a flight time meter. Run duration by one wind up of the spring is 120 hours. Operative temperature range –60oC to +50oC. Produced in different variations from 1933.
There’s the last watch I worked on. Here there’s my lovely English
pocket movement.
Fig 1. Just a blank dial
Its case was made of gold so it had been lost in time. The dial is in
pretty good condition except on the crack at 12. There was a lug to fix
the movement to the case. Maybe smb dismounted it with no care and
cracked the dial a bit. The movement is covered with special hood. One
turn of the blued arc clockwise – and it’s open, CCW – closed. So I removed
the hood to show you the guts. Unfortunately, I do not have any info about
manufacturer except two letters “TF” (what date can it be?) on the hood and its serial number 94579.
The movement came to me in pretty good condition, so I even hesitated
whether any person serviced it. The problem was with the balance wheel – the balance
rim and roller rotated freely on the axis, also its hairspring was
deformed. The whole movement was dirty with old oil.
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Fig 2. The movement is covered with
hood
This movement is based on a fusee, so the only way to release the
mainspring is a special ratchet wheel under the dial. Normally it used
to make the mainspring be wound at 1-1,5 turns (Its principle is close to the
Maltese cross – where we allow the mainspring to work in the special range:
not to be fully released or wound). One of fusee aims also not to let
the mainspring to be released or full wound. Changing length of the
chain we can find the moment when we use only working area of the
mainspring.
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Fig 3. Pretty nice movement inside
The movement was full wound, so I inspected it carefully before any
step. I decided not to release the mainspring traditionally because of
the risk to damage it. So I had to remove the balance wheel first and
make its repair. After centering the impulse jewel and improving the
hairspring I mounted the balance unit back. I had to give some benzene to
all pivots to make the watch running. And after some manipulations it
became working. At first the amplitude was very poor, so it stopped twice.
Then the matters went better – it worked about 28 hours before stopping.
Afterwards I was able to release the mainspring without any trouble (just
repeat: with a special ratchet wheel under the dial). Then it was not a
problem to disassemble the whole movement. I was amazed with the quality
of finishing – all parts, including brass wheels were polished and
shined brightly like a mirror.
Fig 4. The fusee chain
After careful cleaning and lubricating I assembled the movement. The
only problem was to mount the chain back – if the mainspring is released
– the chain should be on the barrel, not on the fusee. But in this
condition it tries to slip from the barrel surface. After several
attempts I mounted all wheels, the pallet fork, the fusee and the barrel with a coiled
chain and covered it with the bridge. I also didn’t forget to wind the
mainspring on 1,5 turns.
Fig 5. Another view
After some tunes the movement works perfectly. “Perfectly” means that the
watch gains 5 seconds per day! After a week testing it was about 30
seconds gaining. Pay attention that balance rim is made of solid gold!
There’s no any temperature compensation device.
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Fig 6. The balance rim is made of
solid gold. As to the endstone – it’s a diamond.
What else? As I mentioned before, in post …. all watches of that
period had no setting square at the back. So if you want to set time –
just open the glass, find a square on the minute hand and using the key
set the time. Also notice that escapement wheel has two cap jewels –
quite rare for that period. As to escapement – traditional English one
(not Swiss).
At Moscow flea market I found one interesting movement. To pity its in a poor condition: there’s no case, some parts are broken, some missed. It’s an old Invicta watch of the beginning of twentieth century.
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What interested me in this movement? It’s nice chronograph with minute repeater.
I cleaned it carefully and fixed some small problems. Watch function works perfectly,as to chrono function – it works theoretically. “Theoretically” means, that if you rotate column wheel – chrono starts, stops and resets. But there’s no lever to rotate it. I will try to find missed clicker and broken spring. As to repeater – here more problems. A spring is broken, there are no strings, some parts under the dial are missed. But anyway you can notice how complex this movement is.
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Repeater centrifugal governor (wheel with maltese cross) has two weights. It slows down gongs. Under centrifugal forces they move apart, but small springs return them back.
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You can notice that it’s quite spacy under the dial (I didn’t photograph it because it’s not interesting). In some watches you can find full calendar with moon phase. This one didn’t have such complications. To pity cannon pinion and hour wheels are missed. But still you can notice brass wheel with sharp teeth. There’re 12 teeth. Underneath it has a plate of spiral shape with steps. The bottom raker interacts with it and knows about hours.
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The upper raker interfered with cannon pinion. There’re 14 teeth for minutes. On the fifteen there’ll be a strike – a quarter. So these two rakers by means special levers affect on cams and make them striking the strings.
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On disassembling I found that it’s quite common to watchmaking society Landeron movement: “Hahn Landeron”. You can notice a raker with sqare – it’s the end of repeater spring arbor. You can also notice a gear – the bottom raker interacts with the push lever. By pressing on it you wind repeater module and it strikes present time.
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I dismounted repeater bridges just to show you its spring.
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In conclusion I wanna mention that working on such movements is a great pleasure. I still cannot believe that it was possible to make such complicated movements a century ago.
I found one quite old watch. It’s a pocket watch in silver case of well known English watchmaker Markwick Markham. There’re two things which interested me in this watch: the oldest type of escapement and a dial.
It’s a well known fact that Markwick Markham worked for Turkish market.
Fig 1. A watch for Turkish market
The digits are very interesting. “0″ means 5 – notice mark 55 – cool?
Unfortunately, hands are just a replacement – it’s a Louis XIV style.
It’s one of the latest Markwick’s works – There’s “IC” – at the bottom of the case, so for now I’m in questions if it means 1804 or 1798 year of production. Anyway it’s at least 200 years old!
Fig 2. Keyhole with secret
The caseback has a special device – there’s a lever which opens and closes a small key hole. Nearby the hinge you can find a special small pin. If you move it aside – you can open or close the hole.
Fig 3. Hand setting position
Like many watches of that time this one has a special bezel. After opening it you can set time – notice the square on the top of the cannon pinion. At the bottom of the dial there’s a small pusher to show you a movement. Let’s push it and…
Fig 4. Fusee and contrate wheel
…we can see the movement. It’s a nice verge with fusee. On this pic you can notice fusee wheel with chain on it and the contrate wheel – it interacts with the crown or escape wheel.
Pic 5. This wheel is made to interact with the horizontally placed crown wheel
On this fig we can take a closer look to contrate wheel. The steel plate works as a cap jewel of crown wheel. BTW I was amazed but almost all verge movements do not have JEWELS! This one also do not have jewels.
To make other pics I had to decouple the case and the movement.
Fig 6. Hand pierced balance cock and unique moon-shaped silver regulator
Here it is. A nice movement of the famous watchmaker. Notice a balance cock – it’s hand pierced. A plate in keyhole shape (coqueret) – works as a balance endstone. The white moon shaped disk is a regulator. I have to mention that this watch has quite an interesting regulating system. It also has two pins for hairspring. These pins are placed on the special arc with teeth. This ark moves in the special slot and interacts with the ratchet wheel, hidden under this white lunation. You can notice a square of that wheel. By rotating it you change the rate. There was an arrow on this disk – but it had missed. Also pay attention to the signs on the disk – the same digits like on the dial: from 1 to 5.
Fig 7. 3D adjustment
This movement has 3D verge regulation. It means that you can move a bit the end of balance with flags in 3 dimensions! Notice a screw with the special fillet. By unscrewing it we can move a special bar. This bar is coupled with balance bearing. Aside there’s another screw (unfortunately, vanished in darkness)- and another dimension. The last screw allows bearing move in axial direction.
Here I put some more pictures of this interesting watch.
Fig 8. Under the dial. Notice figures 8585
Fig 9. Dismounted dial. The same figures – 8585. There are the same figures at the caseback
Fig 10. Dismounted balance bridge
Fig 11. Crown or escape wheel
Fig 12. Verge balance wheel
Notice that the bridge and the dial are fixed with collers.
Also have to mention that balance wheel is plain and has special stem on the rim. I guess it has the same purpose like in cylinder escapement.
This watch came to me in a poor condition – some collers were missed and it was a sort of spare parts. Also there was a problem with fusee chain. Had to fix it. I had to clean wheel pinions from the oldest scurf. For now the watch theoretically works – it gains about 20 – 30 minutes per day but for now I do not intend to make it more accurate. Many collectors also consider that it’s enough to be aware that it works. Of course nobody will use this watch as a timekeeper.
Unfortunately, repeaters are fairly rare and expensive so opportunity to own and service any of them is welcomed.
Here I represent three repeaters: two quarter and one minute.
The first one is an open faced travel watch in a square case with opening back to put it on the table.
Fig.01. Travel pocket quarter repeater
It’s a cheapie Cyma. I do not like Cymas at all but this one seemed to me very interesting. The watch is not in very good condition. Gunmetal has some rust spots and somewhere it is worn away, so it needs to be polished and blued. The dial is black and has Roman numerals with single sunk small seconds. To pity it has a quite big crack on 4, but no chips. Nice Breguet style hands are just a replacement – It has no hands at all when I’ve bought it. The case marked with a serial number 20216.
Fig.02. A movement covered with the glass back
A few words about the movement – it’s quite common CYMA 13 jewels quarter repeater. The gilded brass movement is a Swiss bar type with individual cocks for the escape and fourth wheels. The balance has screws on the rim but it’s uncut, however, the hairspring is alloy, which needs an uncut rim for temperature compensation and has overcoil like in better calibers.
The problem with servicing repeaters is – it is very uncommon and has a lot of very special levers, springs. So even plain cleaning can give you a real headache. You need to keep each part with its associated screw separately during disassembling and cleaning. If you’ve got a small experience in repeater TLC – it won’t take more time than a servicing chronograph. Do not forget to photograph or to make drafts during servicing – it will save your time and nerves.
Fig.03. Under the dial: T- trigger push-piece, MR- matching rack, SW – star wheel, Q- quarter snail, CR – circular rack, PH & PQ – hour and quarter pawls, QS – quarter stop
The push piece here is made as a trigger lever. So you should move aside a trigger and it will come back during chiming.
This movement has no governor – just a lever like in alarm clocks. So it buzzes. It has very loud chime, besides it’s not very fast.
Both cams in this movement from the one side – one over the other. So strings are also come out the only side.
How to wind repeater:
The repeat mainspring is wound by pulling the trigger, which pushes the matching rack. By its teeth it interacts with a half pinion, mounted on the repeater spring arbor.
Interacting the hours and quarters:
Fig.04. Pushing the trigger. Notice that sensitive fingers are touching their snails
There are two snails: an hour snail (underneath a star wheel) and a quarter snail on the minute pinion. Hour snail has 12 segments, quarter – 4 ones. The star wheel is positioned by a jumper, which causes it to jump forward the whole hours.
Theoretically it’s necessary that in the moment when star wheel jumps forward – quarters also should change 3 quarters onto zero. For this purpose there was constructed a surprise piece, mounted underneath the quarter snail on the cannon pinion.
Fig.05. Cannon pinion with quarter snail and surprise piece (shown underneath), star wheel with 12 segment snail
The surprise piece is thrown out by the movement of the star wheel at the moment it jumps forward. It means that no quarters are sounded the moment the new hour is indicated by the hour snail.
Here I will stop a long tale about CYMA.
Here’s a new one quarter repeater. It has a more common construction and it’s easier to describe you the principles.
Fig.06. Traditional repeater with governor
This repeater is in a silver hunter case. Unfortunately, the producer was very modest and forgot to print his brand name on the dial. Bless him. I didn’t photograph the dial because of it’s quite poor condition. But under it… Oh it’s a real miracle.
What else about the movement – a plain Swiss made caliber with a governor. Balance has overcoil – nice tradition for repeaters. Ratchet wheel is fastened in place by a boss with two holes.
But let us continue about the repeater works.
If you have read a few words before, you can easily find a star wheel with a snail (here it is vice versa), a quarter snail. What else? A push piece is made as a button. It interacts with a lever, which in its turn, interacts with a matching rack. It also winds a spring thru the half pinion.
I photographed separately a cannon pinion with a quarter snail and surprise piece. Also here there’s a large pic of star wheel (see fig 5).
Inspecting dings-dongs
Fig.07. A closer look:
MR – matching rack, SW – star wheel, Q – quarter snail, CR – circular rack, QS – quarter stop, HF – hour sensitive finger, QF – quarter sensitive finger, PH & PQ – hour and quarter pawls, P – pin, “1″ – hour teeth, “2″ & “3″ – quarter low & high strike teeth, “4″ – quarter stop slots
You can notice a circular rack, mounted on the squared repeater mainspring arbor. Its teeth interact with two pawls: hour and quarter. These pawls are attached to the hammers that strike the wire gongs.
When you push on the button – it rotates CCW, when release – CW. Here teeth engage with the hour pawl. We hear low pitched gong. The quarter pawl is placed a bit off, so it’s not engaged.
Except for 12 hour teeth the circular rack has two sets with 3 teeth (quarters).
One set – for low pitched gong, the other one – for high pitched gong. The teeth are positioned so that they operate their pawls alternately. First Ding, then Dong.
You can notice a pin on the circular rack plate. It interacts with a quarter stop lever, mounted on the quarter sensing finger. It prevents further rotation of the circular rack. There are 4 slots in a quarter stop – the closer one (the foot)– no strike – close to the tip – 3 quarters. So you can imagine: if it engages with a pin nearby its foot – it allows the circular rack to rotate a small angle, if it’s closer to the tip – than a bigger angle – more strikes.
Fig.08. Ready to chime 3 hours and 3 quarters (released)
Fig.09. Sensitive fingers touched snails (wound)
I photographed two stages of the repeat works: wound and released. So you can see how sensing fingers touch their sections on the snails.
Here I will stop my tale about noname repeater.
Le Phare
Let us allow to come a novice on the stage:
The well known Le Phare minute repeater with a chrono function.
I’ve bought it in a handmade silver case. Oh it is very heavy 
.
As always there are problems with hands. I placed temporarily another minute hand. Now it has normal hands. Only small seconds is still missed 
.
Fig.10. Standard Le Phare movement in handmade silver case
The dial has small chips but no cracks.
As to the movement – it works well. There was the only problem – the column wheel lever is missed. I had to make another one. I do not have the original so now it looks too modern. Hope to find a normal one.
Anyway – everything works perfectly.
The other chapter is a governor
Fig.11. Chrono module and jewelled governor
It’s not a secret – that Le Phare has invented a centrifugal governor system. It slows the rate of striking so that hours, quarters and minutes can be counted easily. But I have to notice that an alarm lever slowing system is slower than the governor (pardon for repeating). Even in spite of the buzzing sound it is more comfortable to listen.
But … let’s return to our Le Phare. The slowing movement consists of a governor, its train and a cage. You can notice a big jewel in the cage.
The two small weights in the governor are mounted on the hinged arms which fly out controlling springs as the regulator spins, until the weights rub on the wall of the cage.
The aim of the governor is not only to slow the speed of spinning but also to keep constant rate of rotating.
Let’s take a look under the dial. Ummm.
Fig.12. Under the dial
Notice that four minute snails made as a cross, are mounted on the cannon pinion. There are FOUR!! Surprise pieces underneath these snails. Now you know a purpose of this device. Each snail has 14 sections – 14 minutes.
Under these snails – there is a well known quarter snail (also with a surprise piece). In spite of the fact that the minute repeater differs from the quarter only with addition of one rack and these snails – it takes us to a much higher level.
Fig.13. Under the dial (Close up): SW – star wheel, M – minute snails, HF, QF and MF – hour, quarter and minute sensitive fingers, SS – surprise piece spring (for minutes), MS – minutes stop
Fig.14. Notice a minute surprise piece
Pay attention to the sensing fingers – there’re 3 ones: one is made as a matching rack, others – as rack levers. Also pay attention to minute stop lever. It has 15 slots. It works like a quarter stop lever and also allows the circular rack to turn on a certain angle (to strike certain qty of minutes).
Fig.15. Some parts dismounted. Here:
MR – matching rack, HP – half pinion, HT – hour teeth, PH&PM – hour and minute pawls, B – mainspring barrel (do not mix with repeat mainspring!)
Notice three sets of teeth: one fixed to the square arbor of the repeat mainspring, two others are placed on the quarter rack lever: two sets with 3 teeth – for quarters and one set with 14 teeth for minutes.
Fig.16. A close-up of racks:
minute rack with: MF – minute sensitive finger, “4″ – 15 slots for stop minutes, quarter rack with: 3 sets of teeth: “1″ & “2″ for quarters (low and high strikes) and “3″ – for minutes, MS – is a minute stop
In conclusion:
When you work on the repeater do not forget to wind up a repeat mainspring on one – two of turns. It’s enough to be sure that even the longest strike (12:59) will accomplish. One turn for a normal gear. Two turns – to compensate some wear – to make strikes constant.
Before disassembling a repeat barrel – dismount all parts of the repeat works – it will save the repeat wheel train and the mainspring.
I will be very grateful if you send me by mail some additions or notes.
You can hardly find a modern watch with detent escapement. Nowadays there are only marine chronometers still have such a pretty nice regulator. Believe me – detent escapement – is more consistent than any other escapement, even traditional lever. Accuracy of this regulateur is reputable and much more closer to quartz watches.
There’s a range about 2-3 seconds per day! Compare with lever range +40 / -20 seconds per day. Even COSC certified chronometers has worse features.
It could be the best except one thing. If you shake it or hit a bit – it can halt with no damage. It was possible to wear such king of escapement in pockets but absolutely impossible in wrist watches.
Not far away the only way to measure exact time was to calculate it according to astronomical observations, so there were observatories in mountains keeping exact time. For the first time they used quite primitive timekeepers, then there were pendulum regulateurs de parquet.
For overseas cruises they used marine chronometers. For sure pendulum clocks are not fit for a boat – suffered of nausea.
So there was invented quite dodgy device to allow the movement to stay in horizontal position (I mean gimbals). Detent escapement was the best to keep accurate time for weeks.
So in this way you could hardly find a flaw of this escapement.
But still for what reason there were produced pocket chronometers?
The answer is – nobody heard about GPS systems ), so all society still relied on observatory time measurements. Pocket chronometers were in demand just to synchronize time between timekeepers (for example between observatory and town reference clock).
Here’s a movement made by Lipman (LIP) in the beginning of 20s (Circa 1910-1930). It had been placed in a hunter gold case.
There’s nothing interesting on a dial – as blank as many dials of that period.
Fig.1 Bimetallic balance wheel with helical hairspring. In most systems it has two pallet jewels (one placed in a roller cut). Here there’s the only jewel and the roller has a specially shaped cut. Its walls replace the second pallet jewel (underneath)
Fig.2 Parts of detent escapement: escape wheel and spring detent
Spring detent consists of a passing spring – very sensitive made of gold and locking pallet jewel.
Fig.3 Escape wheel and spring detent are mounted on the plate
Fig.4 Regulator assembled
Fig.5 After cleaning and lubricating it works like a new one.
Here I posted a few pics of pivoted detent chronometer. Very interesting movement with first system of keyless works!
Fig.6 J. Calame Robert chronometer with pivoted detent. A luxury movement with expensive stud holder and bimetallic balance
Fig.7 A closer look at the regulator system. Cap jewel settings are made of solid gold
Fig.8 You can notice a hairspring on the detent
Fig.9 Balance wheel with two pallet jewels. Regulating screws are made of gold
Fig.10 Two pallet jewels of the balance wheel. Macro view
Do not hesitate to contact me if you’ve got any additions and notes. Thanx.
I was shown the slimmest movement I had ever seen. It’s a movement of Geneve watchmaker Auguste Golay Leresche.
Its a back plate – you can see it if open a case back. You can notice that the movement is designed in vica versa style. To the left – is a balance index system, to the right – winding system. A small squire under the word “Auguilles” – is to set hands.
It’s a pic under the dial. Notice the parasite wheel under the steel bridge in the center – it is made to change direction of hands. Also notice a rack of the index system – it’s made to regulate balance rate from the other side.
Like any good movement this one has Maltese cross. For that time cylinder escapement was the best one. As to traditional lever escapement – it was new and not so popular.
It is really 1 mm in thickness!
Here there was put a Russian coin just to compare. They are very common in their sizes
Unfortunately, the movement has some problems and doesn’t work.
At my lovely fleamarket I found a nice pocket movement. It is jewelled through the hammers quarter repeater with quite rare duplex escapement. The movement is of the high grade level. I suppose it is a Patek Czapek, but i can be mistaken. The serial number is 4351- so it was produced in 1850-1855.
The only minor thing – second wheel was broken – for this moment I restored it. For the moment of getting pics it was removed from the movement.
So there is no second hand.
The dial is in good condition – only almost invisible chip. Big second dial is common for high grade watches.
The bridges and parts are in near mint condition, repeater unit works perfectly, Duplex escapement is in ideal condition (even cylindrical jewel).
Notice high grade finishing of the hammers, steel parts.
Pay attention to the duplex wheel. It is made of steel (mostly it is made of brass), finished till the black polishing. Cap jewel is pressed in gold chaton.
Duplex balance wheel has a pallette and ruby cylinder – to minimise friction and to increase periods between servicings. Unfortunately, it is the most fragile part of the balance. To minimise power losses cylinder should be made of agate or ruby. Also it should be of small diameter. The axis inside the jewel is also very tiny. The balance wheel is big, so the pivot suffers quite big forces.
I’ve got a few duplex watches but this is the only with working original duplex.
As to repeat works – racks are made in high quality edition. It has “All or nothing” device, allowing repeater to strike only after full wind of repeater mainspring.
To understand the difference between high grade and low end repeaters visit my review on the cheap repeaters.
To compare I also put pics of High Grade LeCoultre quarter repeater, also jewelled through the hammers.
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